Promising as it may
seem, I had no other desire than simply to be there, ready to welcome whatever
I’d get on my plate as a good guest should be.
Thus, opening the
door to serendipity on the island whose Arabic name Serendib (“island of gems”)
is whence this word comes.
And so it went. From
the very first moment on, when I was immediately upon my arrival hugged by the
nocturnal heat (30C) and a tremendous humidity.
This combination I’d normally
find challenging, felt now like the magical breath of a piece of earth covered
with wild vegetation and surrounded by the warm ocean. Green. Lush. Sensuous.
Sinbad’esque.
*
“Just what would
one’s first impressions of Ceylon be? Mine were formed a little over seven
years ago, but although the country has changed considerably since then, very
likely I should notice the same details today: fireworks, flags and lanterns of
festival time, thousands of clowning and chattering crows, Christmas-tree bulbs
strung through the branches of the trees, catamarans like primitive wooden
sculptures beached on the sand, zebus pulling enormous painted carts,
umbrella-shaped shrines in the Buddhist temple precincts, the Sinhalese with
their frail bodies and betel-stained lips and, more than all the rest put
together, the reckless luxuriance of the vegetation. It is hard to visualize
any scene here without its backdrop of trees, so completely do they dominate
the landscape. They are always there, the vast rain-trees and the ancient
bo-trees with their quivering sequin-like leaves, the bread-fruits and the
jaks, the abnormally tall cocos (in the neighborhood of my home they grow to
eighty feet) and the incredibly thin areca palms” says Paul Bowls beautifully
in his Letter from Ceylon (Travels).
His essay is from
1957. After 56 years, those were the details I too noticed with amazement
–except for the carts and betel neither of which is allowed today. (One may
smoke or chew betel only indoors, including public spaces like restaurants or
bars, not outside. Cigarette butts on the ground are just nonexistent.)
Nor I saw the
Christmas tree bulbs. It was the Buddhist New Year though, and the bulbs were
replaced by fireworks and the incessant tumult of the crackers for one week!
As for the “reckless
luxuriance of the vegetation,” ah!
Starting from the
small seaside village Negombo (neat and low key in contrast with the nearby busy
capital Colombo with its suffocating pollution), travelled to the north, then to
the highland with the country’s only “mountains,” heading finally to the south,
I covered a good part of the island (skipping the national parks -I’m not
really into the safari- and leaving the east coast to some other time). And
during all the time it was this abundant vegetation the leitmotiv. Driving through
the dark green tunnels of the centuries-old huge trees, pass the mahoganies,
teaks, rubber trees, ebonies, tall, tall cocos: a thick cover, densely woven
with infinitely diverse threads of different trees and their whole palette of
green.
What a feeling of riches
is this! Fading all the human misery, poverty, trivializing them it comes to
the forefront as if pointing out the true affluence. (I can’t help but compare
the effect of this with, say, that of the rich towns in arid California. Human
versus natural abundance.)
*
Those exotic
inversions..
A street vendor
selling on his straw mat laying on the ground potatoes, onions and..
pineapples!
Slaking your thirst
with some coco juice from its husk, cheaper than a can of pop. And healthy.
*
Observing the traffic
in a country is the shortest way to get its prevailing sense of time.
Distances are not
great. But what you see on those very decorative signs in three languages
(Sinhalese, Tamil and English) is utterly misleading! After half a day, I
realized that distances here are measured not in kilometers but in time. Having
no hurry they respect the speed limit (70km/h) willingly. It took almost 5
hours to get from Anuradhapura to Kandy –the distance being “just” 147 km. It’s
as though they drive slowly to enlarge their island in this way.
No, they really have
no hurry. Exasperating at first (strong is the grip of entrenched habits) this
islander sense of time mirrored my own ambiguous stance. After a healthy
confrontation I let go and relaxed deeply.
Time is not a whip
cracked on their backs. A separate entity which alienates one to life.
Something one has to obey its demands for the best part of their life to be
emptied and released for the rest. Time to them, it seems, is life itself. It’s
they who let it flow as they like.
*
Proximity and mingling
of such different cultures bring about unique mixtures of customs.
The first driver I
hired was a Catholic with two tiny plastic Jesus figures glued to the dashboard
and prayer beads hanging from the rear-view mirror. In the morning he was
doing a puja, honoring the Lord with
freshly plucked white flowers and an incense stick. The second one was Buddhist
with a ceramic Samadhi Buddha at the same place on the dashboard.
I saw temples where
Buddha and Hindu deities are worshipped together. A contradiction I’m still
unable to make sense of.
One enters barefoot not
only Buddhist and Hindu temples but also churches. In fact, considering how
many of them you visit you may as well go barefoot all the time for the rule is
valid in the entire area seen as part of the temple. Sometimes you have to take
off your shoes a few hundred meters before the building itself.
Stepping burning
stone ground, climbing rocks in the midday heath was hard to my delicate soles
at first. But then I saw the logic to this madness. Taking off the shoes, being
barefoot is something humbling, and so, readying. Besides it brings one to
their body. Grounding.
After some time I
started to enjoy this greatly.
This and eating your
food with fingers. (They say that it tastes so much better so, and I agree.
Putting aside the aggressive, insensitive, metallic cutlery really makes a
difference. It’s like making love without condom.)
*
I am blessed with
people I meet in my travels. Highly interesting, helpful locals and fellow
travelers who share their insights, impressions and knowledge generously. This
trip was no exception. I’ll particularly remember Mr. Faiesz (an archetypal
uncle type who went out of his way to help me find a room in Ella during the impossible
period of the Buddhist New Year –also how elucidating were his numerous anecdotes)
and handsome Danush (a true born storyteller, in love with his ancestral
heritage he told passionately about for hours). (By the way, listening to the
classical poem/songs from him was the only time Sinhalese sounded pleasant to
me. Dry and harsh, this language I’ve heard in the street is hard to reconcile
with Buddhism. In contrast with its cursive script I find adorable. Derived
from Sanskrit it’s fluent and calligraphic. Visually musical.)
*
Swimming in the Indian
Ocean. Warmth and power. It’s like moving through some liquid form of Yin and
Yang.
