2013/12/20

KILLING THE BUTTERFLY

What a difference, between seeing oneself through thoughts, preconceptions (the mind) and that prelinguistic, direct way of perceiving with no labeling whatsoever. When you shift into the latter, you have a one-off, unique cocktail in your cup the myriad constituents of which are ever varying in density, light, spaciousness, texture, friction, flow. I’m fine, you say roughly. Fine? What does that mean at a given moment? How are the countless dots connected whose momentarily outcome is what you’re used to call the Self? The ordinary language acts like pinning the butterfly. “I’m fine”, and you have done with it. Killed the butterfly. Only art could offer an organic expression of those instants when one lives from within. 

2013/10/20

WALKING THE SHADOWS

They came along. Following or followed by us, alternately short and long, dark and pale, they were with us. And not only tonight.



















2013/09/26

C’MON BABY LIGHT YOUR FIRE



When you are stimulated from within, you don’t seek excitement outside. Life, as it is, gets wonderfully and sufficiently exciting.

You just walk around like a self-ignited torch.



2013/09/25

JUST STAY

How different life feels when you stop jumping around and stay with what you have at hand.

When you let your definitions, preconceptions quietly go.

When you embrace what you’d otherwise find pleasant or unpleasant equally, including the part of you that still might have the urge to avoid pain and seek pleasure.

How your perception deepens when you just stay. 

How full, fresh, stimulating and rich feels life then.

2013/09/23

FORTUNE-TELLING


You are upset.

Indignant. Frustrated. Irritated.

People are not the way you like them to be.

Unresponsive, irresponsible, insensitive, messy, cruel, you name it, they are.

In short, they don’t fit into your story. (We all have our own stories. And sometimes they beautifully match for a while –until one awakens and starts to relate beyond stories.)

So, you are upset.

In order to look acceptable, you need to disguise the simple truth even for yourself.

Instead of simply saying “I’m upset because I don’t get what I want” you embellish it. Justify your reasons, ennoble them.

Now you are upset and righteous in front of this erratic casting. A double hunch camel with the burden you lay on yourself.

But in no time, in a happy moment of realization as the apple fallen on Newton’s head, it’s going to dawn on you, and the door to dramas closes and click! heart’s vast, vast eyes open.

2013/09/13

TO ASK NOW AND THEN

Am I able to let my loved ones go anytime?

No matter how much I love them. Precisely because I do love them and do not mistake clinging (to the strings attached or to my conceptions about how should things be) for love.

With whom do I have this liberty?

Do I allow change to occur? At any time and in any form?

Questions to see how free my relation to the people, and yes, to life itself at any given moment.

A practical test.

2013/09/05

JUNKYARD AT SUNSET

A theme that never fails to fascinate me.

Rusty metal misleadingly so smooth looking in the evening light. Like a sleeping beast. Exuberant life in forgotten colors. Bits and pieces of things past. Plastic. A wild collage. Chaotic, tragic. Inspiring. 

Limbo between the ending and a new beginning.

A meaningless meaning.


(Photos:

2013/08/23

CHEWING GUM

Meditation at the dentist. The only way for me to bear what feels like some infernal sequence of torture is letting the mind wildly wander. Take, for example, the phrase “chewing gum.” A foreigner who had learned what to call the firm, fleshy tissue covering the alveolar parts of either jaw and enveloping the necks of the teeth might understand it as chewing one’s gum(s). Even more confusing are the words that are both a verb and a noun such as “rose” or the Turkish word “yüz” (which means face, hundred, swim and to skin). As if our imagination hung us all of a sudden out to dry, or maybe was fed up with inventing a word for each and every thing and so hurriedly huddles together the remaining things to be named regardless of their relevance. A strange economy. 

Come to think of it, languages’ vocabularies may as well have been developed in the various dental chairs of the world. 

ALICE’S RABBIT AND THE MISER

I watched him hurrying awkwardly. Already running late, he was performing a mysterious choreography which cost him further time. The frantic victim of the poor time-management. “You look like the Rabbit in Wonderland” I said, laughing.

What an inspiring observation these beating-the air behaviors are in someone else (as opposed to the acrid feeling of being in their grip oneself).

There seems to be a strong relation between hurry and its derivative, worry, and the resources both psychological and material.

The more anxious we are, the scarcer it feels they are, and eventually get to be.

Like money in the hand of the miser.

Or time. As long as you see it as an external oppressor, like the rabbit sees his chain watch, you will desperately try to ignore it until the last minute.

Or you can pay regard to your inner rhythms and walk gracefully.

This is the difference between running like a beheaded chicken (as we say in Turkish) and being a well adjusted dancer; The difference between hurry and excitement.

"So be calm and act counterintuitively, openhanded with what you’ve got. Time, money, love, care.. Spend (not waste), give away and offer,” I said to myself, quietly satisfied with my train of thought when the black sunglasses he left on the table caught my eye.

2013/08/19

MORNING TEA




Let things change for they do anyway along with your interpretation of them. Don’t seek the impossible by attempting to create constant reference points, only to be frustrated, disheartened, and bitter once they lose their initial impetus. To remain alive, creative and committed invest in the appetite for life instead. Let it be the hearth fire. Things and the way you focus on come and go. Let them be like firewood. Then you can welcome change as the air that inflames the fire.. I found myself saying this while sipping on my morning tea.

2013/08/16

OPEN SESAME!

How I love those moments of sudden lucidity!

The wheat separating from the chaff so effortlessly, so neatly that one wonders why it took so long for such a clear picture to appear.

But apparently you must be ready, or else, you’ve painted yourself badly into a corner so that this clarity occurs as a deus ex machina of sorts.

Howsoever, there you are a calm, impartial spectator of an ongoing power struggle within between light and darkness. What has thus far been a murky, paralyzing amalgam, begins to disentangle into its constituents. Sub-characters with strongly conflicting traits. And you see..

that there’s nothing wrong with embodying diametrically opposite features. They are only problematic when jumbled, when neither black nor white exists in its own right but together compose a dull gray. A muffle of energy, vitality, and joy.

As soon as they are polarized, recognized, and fully owned, a dynamic interplay begins to replace the former absorption.

A beautiful foretaste of liberation.

2013/07/22

REMEMBER

Just as there is arterial calcification, I thought to myself, there is a spiritual one, as well. This is when you think you already know what is in front of you. A blinding fallacy. In its advanced acute stage, it leads to perceptual congestion, a kind of mental/emotional cataract. Don’t waste your time by struggling with the problem. Just shift from this stagnant pond to the Source where one is ever fresh in one’s perception, childlike enthusiastic, wisely serene, light and deep. Once you get the switch it’s as easy as shifting your weight from one foot to the other. Remember, just remember.

2013/07/14

COOKING FIRE

Another violent night in various places of the country.

The movement is evolving toward further uncertainty.

One morning I woke up with the recognition that we’re forcefully taught to be a minority. “We,” the people who want to have democracy and not a ridiculous mimicry of it.

We’re faced with something having an altogether different agenda in mind. And this something is the government that tries to repress and silence the resistance (by police force, heavy censorship of the media, and blocking the jurisdiction), worse still, to make it subject of a distorted reality. (“Just marginal groups, a handful of çapulcu who are breaking the peace!”) A government representing of a previous minority that has been repressed for decades by the secular governments with the “help” of the army. Hence their fearful reflex of us against them, their animosity, violence that blind them to the point of not being able to see what really is going on.

Being a part of a minority is something new for me, and yet I can already imagine what previously nonexistent sensibilities are to be developed, what wounds to be endured. A sobering perspective for sure, but also has a considerable potential in deepening the empathy, the understanding of “others.” A cooking fire.

*

In the middle of a spiritual inflammation (it really feels like this) I’m reminding myself things I’ve learned, discovered thus far.

Our built-in response to stress is closing down, worrying. So you have to counteract this reflex willfully. Keep it simple. Begin with getting rid of counterproductive emotions such as victimization, self-pity, sterile anger. First of all, unrealistic expectations. See your opponent as some force defending its lebensraum, just as you do with yours, period. Don’t let it take you by surprise and infuriate you with its every move. Anticipate bigger challenges, more injustice, and atrocities.

What makes things good or bad is but your interpretation. Work on it. Stay lucid.

Open up yourself to things that support vitality: friendships, solidarity. See(k) beauty, light everywhere, not as an escape but to keep a fuller sense of living. Don’t repress your wounded part rather enter a dialog with her, offering an alternative in perception.

Etc.

2013/07/09

A SCHIZOPHRENIC INTEGRATION

One could write another Ulysses based on just a few hours of yesterday’s wildly kaleidoscopic experiences and observations.

The Gezi Park was announced to be officially reopened today. Ignoring that, the Taksim Solidarity group of the resisters invited people to the square “to get back what belongs to us.” Now, you can see this either as an unnecessarily provocative act or a consistent move, depending among others on how much you’re fed up. I was neutral.

At the other end of the about 2 miles long İstiklal street that links Taksim to the smaller Tünel square the annual jazz festival was supposed to take place with several groups at various venues.

Through and through in love with this town anew, even the long ride to the place in a packed bus in the summer afternoon heat, was something I deeply enjoyed. Tuning in to his vibrant life is simply electrifying. What in other times disturbs me, the ugly scar on his face left by the tasteless urbanization, the crowd, his impossible traffic and all, turns then into a quasi mystic experience in which I feel discerning perfection in imperfection.

As I’ve met with some friends at my favorite bistro nearby, the slogans were getting louder. I went out to see, took photos of those TOMA called ominous police trucks equipped with water cannons and their smaller versions, the Scorpions (a very appropriate name) for the narrower streets. Istiklal by then was already full of a mixed crowd of the demonstrators and the regular Istanbulites who were coming as usual to have a good time. I went back to resume the chat and finish my beer, having some more French fries while overhearing the conversation of two ladies about the real estate prices in Istanbul (1.7 million USD for an apartment with sea view, 7.5 mio USD for a “yalı” called historical wooden mansion at the Bosphorus) -well off persons who seemed happily unaware of the connection between this (the system) and the very uprising surrounding them.

I was in a sense as detached as they were, or living parallel realities simultaneously, I can’t tell.

Anyway, I left and went to the first venue I’ve chosen for the evening. A cheerful audience was already gathered. The ongoing sound check was mingling with the noise coming off the main street. As I was calmly looking for a good angle to take photos, I've got a call from a friend who warned me to stay off the Taksim square. “They’ve started their damned ‘intervention’ with gas, water cannons, and rubber bullets, arresting people randomly. Looks really bad!”

How to describe the mental state I was in? “Being in the world but not of the world?” Having no fear, but not a particular desire to stay and participate to the demonstration either, it was all one to me. Staying there longer would mean to miss the exit for a long time, so I left.

On my way back, I watched people enjoying the bright summer day at the parks, in the tea gardens. Worlds apart.

Deciding the one I wanted to join, I got off the taxi in Ortaköy at the Bosphorus, bought kokoreç (intestines kebab) headed to the pier and savored all what is.

A sequence reminiscent of the mobius strip on which you can cover separate dimensions with a single uninterrupted movement of your finger.


2013/07/02

HARNESSING THE THUNDERBOLT

This period we’re going through is a living laboratory for so many things. An ongoing experiment that challenges petrified worldviews, knee jerk reactions, pushing you to reconsider your comfort zones..

On the one hand the forums at the parks going on at full speed, on the other, people are marching, one day for their “Kurdish brothers,” to be followed the next day by the gay pride (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=141431382722591&set=vb.309272629091835&type=2&theater). All so incredibly dynamic, fresh and refreshing.

The youth teaches the cold war generations a new way of communication. Free from the habitual (by the oriental thinking badly reinforced) context orientation, they are content oriented. They express themselves in a direct, simple and clear way without sinking into endless what if’s.

Let me give an example. As security forces killed a Kurdish demonstrator in the southeastern Turkey last week, people here immediately organized a protest. I for my part, was hesitant needing to know exactly what happened –with the so-called official and fragile “peace process” going on and given the fact how the region is a “closed box,” ready to be exploded at any moment, I was worrying about a possible misstep which I thought would be fatal. But no, thousands marched, bypassing the details of a particular instance –just forget about hidden agendas, conspiracy theories and stuff!-  proclaiming brotherhood, thus owning the peace process, giving it a real chance. Once more I was in awe –oh, how I LOVE eating my words!

Once empathy is in, as a visceral reality rather than an abstract idea, it expands toward all until then marginalized groups. Kurds, gays, Alawites.. Resulting in a clear and loud demand for basic human rights and a participatory first class democracy.

My enthusiastic emphasis might make seem the whole purer than it really is. Of course there are opportunistic elements as well –besides, a leaderless networking is something altogether new. And the defenders of the status quo suffering deeply from Dunning-Kruger effect are resisting at full strength.

As a person with no political interest/muscle, I used to see such grassroots movements like thunderbolt. Immensely powerful, disruptive but not transformable into a sustainable force. Those who pull the strings, I was telling myself, are doing so by being extremely single-minded. They have to be strategically thinking marathon runners as opposed to the sprinter-like people whose intermittent energy is bound to be distracted and dissipated some time.

This too I had to swallow. (And I find the shaking of my cynical, skeptical stance liberating. It’s as if a heavy crust of dried mud around my waist would crumble.)


It’s not about changing the world overnight. It’s about redefining our humanness and ways of relating to each other, and maybe also to life itself.

2013/06/26

UN-ARTICULATING TIME

Ah, this bitter sweet confusion. Cacophonic, shrill and murky. Brown. And the all too familiar response of ego that calls for “order!” No escape, mate, we have THIS on our plate right now. Let’s simplify things a little to get some clarity so that we wouldn’t be drifted away. The hardest part of dealing with uncertainty seems to be a constricted sense of time. A heightened urgency in avoiding the unpleasant. And impatience as its inevitable consequence. Stop. Breath. Step not on the accelerator like a panicked inexperienced driver, but on the clutch pedal. Expand the sense of time. Make room to the uncertainty. Consider it an indefinite crossing. Shift this narrow-minded attempt to control to something more spacious. Be proactively patient.

2013/04/26

EMBRACING SERENDIPITY


Promising as it may seem, I had no other desire than simply to be there, ready to welcome whatever I’d get on my plate as a good guest should be.

Thus, opening the door to serendipity on the island whose Arabic name Serendib (“island of gems”) is whence this word comes.

And so it went. From the very first moment on, when I was immediately upon my arrival hugged by the nocturnal heat (30C) and a tremendous humidity.

This combination I’d normally find challenging, felt now like the magical breath of a piece of earth covered with wild vegetation and surrounded by the warm ocean. Green. Lush. Sensuous.

Sinbad’esque.



*

“Just what would one’s first impressions of Ceylon be? Mine were formed a little over seven years ago, but although the country has changed considerably since then, very likely I should notice the same details today: fireworks, flags and lanterns of festival time, thousands of clowning and chattering crows, Christmas-tree bulbs strung through the branches of the trees, catamarans like primitive wooden sculptures beached on the sand, zebus pulling enormous painted carts, umbrella-shaped shrines in the Buddhist temple precincts, the Sinhalese with their frail bodies and betel-stained lips and, more than all the rest put together, the reckless luxuriance of the vegetation. It is hard to visualize any scene here without its backdrop of trees, so completely do they dominate the landscape. They are always there, the vast rain-trees and the ancient bo-trees with their quivering sequin-like leaves, the bread-fruits and the jaks, the abnormally tall cocos (in the neighborhood of my home they grow to eighty feet) and the incredibly thin areca palms” says Paul Bowls beautifully in his Letter from Ceylon (Travels).



His essay is from 1957. After 56 years, those were the details I too noticed with amazement –except for the carts and betel neither of which is allowed today. (One may smoke or chew betel only indoors, including public spaces like restaurants or bars, not outside. Cigarette butts on the ground are just nonexistent.)

Nor I saw the Christmas tree bulbs. It was the Buddhist New Year though, and the bulbs were replaced by fireworks and the incessant tumult of the crackers for one week!

As for the “reckless luxuriance of the vegetation,” ah!

Starting from the small seaside village Negombo (neat and low key in contrast with the nearby busy capital Colombo with its suffocating pollution), travelled to the north, then to the highland with the country’s only “mountains,” heading finally to the south, I covered a good part of the island (skipping the national parks -I’m not really into the safari- and leaving the east coast to some other time). And during all the time it was this abundant vegetation the leitmotiv. Driving through the dark green tunnels of the centuries-old huge trees, pass the mahoganies, teaks, rubber trees, ebonies, tall, tall cocos: a thick cover, densely woven with infinitely diverse threads of different trees and their whole palette of green.



What a feeling of riches is this! Fading all the human misery, poverty, trivializing them it comes to the forefront as if pointing out the true affluence. (I can’t help but compare the effect of this with, say, that of the rich towns in arid California. Human versus natural abundance.)

*

Those exotic inversions..

A street vendor selling on his straw mat laying on the ground potatoes, onions and.. pineapples!

Slaking your thirst with some coco juice from its husk, cheaper than a can of pop. And healthy.

*
Observing the traffic in a country is the shortest way to get its prevailing sense of time.
Distances are not great. But what you see on those very decorative signs in three languages (Sinhalese, Tamil and English) is utterly misleading! After half a day, I realized that distances here are measured not in kilometers but in time. Having no hurry they respect the speed limit (70km/h) willingly. It took almost 5 hours to get from Anuradhapura to Kandy –the distance being “just” 147 km. It’s as though they drive slowly to enlarge their island in this way.

No, they really have no hurry. Exasperating at first (strong is the grip of entrenched habits) this islander sense of time mirrored my own ambiguous stance. After a healthy confrontation I let go and relaxed deeply.

Time is not a whip cracked on their backs. A separate entity which alienates one to life. Something one has to obey its demands for the best part of their life to be emptied and released for the rest. Time to them, it seems, is life itself. It’s they who let it flow as they like.



*

Proximity and mingling of such different cultures bring about unique mixtures of customs.

The first driver I hired was a Catholic with two tiny plastic Jesus figures glued to the dashboard and prayer beads hanging from the rear-view mirror. In the morning he was doing a puja, honoring the Lord with freshly plucked white flowers and an incense stick. The second one was Buddhist with a ceramic Samadhi Buddha at the same place on the dashboard.

I saw temples where Buddha and Hindu deities are worshipped together. A contradiction I’m still unable to make sense of.



One enters barefoot not only Buddhist and Hindu temples but also churches. In fact, considering how many of them you visit you may as well go barefoot all the time for the rule is valid in the entire area seen as part of the temple. Sometimes you have to take off your shoes a few hundred meters before the building itself.

Stepping burning stone ground, climbing rocks in the midday heath was hard to my delicate soles at first. But then I saw the logic to this madness. Taking off the shoes, being barefoot is something humbling, and so, readying. Besides it brings one to their body. Grounding.

After some time I started to enjoy this greatly.

This and eating your food with fingers. (They say that it tastes so much better so, and I agree. 
Putting aside the aggressive, insensitive, metallic cutlery really makes a difference. It’s like making love without condom.)

*
I am blessed with people I meet in my travels. Highly interesting, helpful locals and fellow travelers who share their insights, impressions and knowledge generously. This trip was no exception. I’ll particularly remember Mr. Faiesz (an archetypal uncle type who went out of his way to help me find a room in Ella during the impossible period of the Buddhist New Year –also how elucidating were his numerous anecdotes) and handsome Danush (a true born storyteller, in love with his ancestral heritage he told passionately about for hours). (By the way, listening to the classical poem/songs from him was the only time Sinhalese sounded pleasant to me. Dry and harsh, this language I’ve heard in the street is hard to reconcile with Buddhism. In contrast with its cursive script I find adorable. Derived from Sanskrit it’s fluent and calligraphic. Visually musical.)

*

Swimming in the Indian Ocean. Warmth and power. It’s like moving through some liquid form of Yin and Yang.


2013/04/25

AN ISLAND WITH MANY NAMES: SRI LANKA


I chose my next destination on a whim -or maybe, come to think of how preconscious an act it always is, I was the chosen one. Anyway, the loud click of this mutual selection was a sure sign that I’m on the right path.

All right then, I said to myself, we’re going to Sri Lanka!



Check the security issue (current situation and in general), buy your plane ticket, just outline the places and things you’d like to see, and you’ll decide your itinerary day by day following your nose, or ear. In other words, except for a loose leading idea let you be as flexible as a belly dancer.

For a journey to the faraway places is first of all an excellent exercise of flexing your mind, body and spirit. Leaving the habitual behind to embrace the “other.”

Next, I bought the Sri Lanka edition of my travel Bible: Lonely Planet.

As I was turning the pages, my absolute ignorance of the country began to dissipate little by little like an early morning mist. I knew next to nothing. Just that this was the former Ceylon, the tea place, and was vaguely aware of the finally resolved conflict with Tamil.



Tamil? Weren’t they Indians, sort of? Well, yes and no. Part of this people came to the island from India in times immemorial and merged with the native Sinhala. Trouble only began when the British, having difficulty to find work force for their tea plantations (for which they annihilated the rain forests, mind you), let bring some more Tamil who lived apparently as a closed minority refusing to be assimilated. What began as a culture clash evolved over time into a blatant conflict. Ruthless. Bloody. Devastating. Until recently.

So, we have two people on this relatively small island with a poetically beautiful shape (like a fallen teardrop from India into the ocean, they say), situated  6 degrees off the Equator: The Hindu Tamil and the Buddhist Sinhala, the latter building the majority, each of them with their own language and distinct culture, customs.

Along with Buddhism and Hinduism, Islam (brought by the Arab merchants who married to the locals and settled) and Christianity are represented even if in fewer percentages.

Such a multifold input in a small area would not only bring occasional frictions but more important, color, richness of diversity, as well. A cultural equivalent, then, of their rice & curry to die for!

Hmm, delicious and very, very promising.



(to be continued)

for the photos: